Visit to the Dirupi wine cellar
October 6, 2024
At this time, when the hotel is closed, we take the opportunity to get to know our suppliers better. It only takes a 30-minute drive to find ourselves in a completely different environment. From the coniferous forest of Bormio at 1,200 meters, we descend to where olive trees are now also growing! Stefano, a philosopher from Sondrio and viticulture enthusiast since his university days, is our guide. We are lucky: the grape harvest starts right now and all around us there is a bustle of people busy harvesting.
Let’s start with the basics. What makes Valtellina wines and Nebbiolo so special?
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Several factors contribute to the uniqueness of Nebbiolo. Nebbiolo in Valtellina can be considered a native grape, the result of long geographic isolation and centuries of adaptation to the mountains. It is a rare grape variety that grows only here and in Piedmont, with some exports to Australia and California. Second, the climate is particularly favorable. The Valtellina extends in an east-west direction, and the Rhaetian slope offers ideal exposure for sunlight. The valley is protected from cold north winds by the peaks of the Rhaetian slope, which reach 4,000 meters in some places. The proximity to Lake Como creates a microclimate characterized by constant temperatures and regular wind, called breva. The soils are poor and have been wrested from the mountains over the centuries by the construction of dry stone walls that characterize the Valtellina landscape and are now considered an intangible heritage of humanity. Farming here means facing the challenge of almost exclusively manual labor. Winemakers climb narrow terraces connected by stone ladders, without the possibility of using tractors or heavy machinery.
Where are we now?
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We are in the Dossi Salati vineyard in the Grumello area. As you know, we follow organic practices in the management of our vineyards. It is a challenge within such a rugged terrain. For example, we cut the grass instead of using herbicides and have installed mechanical caterpillar deterrents at the base of each trunk. You will see plants of different ages; the older ones, with deep roots, are the most resilient and withstand the stress of extreme weather conditions better, producing grapes of excellent quality, although in smaller quantities than the younger plants. The arrangement of the rows, unchanged over time, is not accidental: ancient winemakers had noticed that rows perpendicular to the valley allowed the wind to pass better between the vines and, even during the hottest hours, the sun did not burn the plants.
What does it mean and what differentiates Grumello, Inferno and Sassella?
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These names represent the subzones of production of Valtellina Superiore DOCG (almost exclusively Nebbiolo) and name the most famous wines of the area. I believe the time has come to overcome the old tradition of trying to identify unique characteristics for each area. In my opinion, what distinguishes the different productions is the altitude and the continuous variation in soil composition, even from one small plot to another. Dirupi’s vineyards are small plots scattered throughout the areas, with altitudes ranging from 300 to 850 meters above sea level. The first grapes we harvest are those destined for our Sforzato, from the highest areas. Thanks to thermal inversion and radiation, these grapes always reach full ripeness. The drier climate and thicker skin characterize these grapes, whose acidity, which is more pronounced than those from the valley floor, is balanced by the drying and long ripening process. Then we begin to harvest the grapes from the valley floor, gradually moving up. With the clusters from this area, characterized by thinner skins and juicier fruit, we produce fresh, young wines, such as the red Valtellina Olè.
Where is your winery located?
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In 2004, two friends and winemakers, “Birba and Davide,” fresh from their studies and full of enthusiasm, asked and obtained from the municipality of Ponte in Valtellina the lease of a monastery dating back to 1568. This is where the grapes are conferred and will have time to ferment and ripen within the thick stone walls. After 20 years of challenges, we now produce 8 different labels. The names of the wines try to adhere as closely as possible to the original name of the production area, although sometimes we have found that they are not exactly correct. The plot where we produce Gess (chalk in dialect) is in an area with white rock; however, it is not chalk, but granite.
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One last curiosity related to the names of your wines! Why is your Sforzato called Vino Sbagliato (wrong wine)?
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You do know how Sforzato is produced, don’t you? The specifications are very strict both regarding the growing areas and the production process. The best bunches of Nebbiolo grapes are placed in traditional fruit lofts, where the slow drying phase begins, a natural dehydration of the grapes that must last until at least early December. From December 1, the grapes can be pressed and fermented in steel, with a 20-day maceration. It then matures for 12 months in barrique and another 12 months in bottle. It is excellent to drink immediately, but can be cellared for up to 10 years. Dirupi’s Sbagliato Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG was born after several years of trial and error, hence the name.
